Man, I feel guilty soaking up so much of Britton’s blog with TWO top ten lists, but I make this one every year, anyway and Britton was interested, so:
Typically, I make a top ten list of the best individual dishes that I have eaten over the year. This year I am switching it up- maybe I have eaten too much stuff to catalog every dish that I have loved this year, but I think that there are other factors at work. Last year, my list featured exotica from several over-indulgent eating tours of other cities. Due to economic circumstances I travelled a lot less this year (well, maybe one really great culinary tour early in the year- it was practically 2007- see number 2) I also feel like I ate out a lot less, especially in the second half of the year. There were definitely amazing restaurant moments- many adventures in Chinatown with Danny Z- stir fried duck tongue, octopus hotpot, and , unusual seasonings chicken to name a few highlights. Pork belly ramen and ssam at Momofuku noodle bar in East Village was definitely my away-from-home high water mark. Most recently, a meal at the never-disappointing Avec of escargot and pheasant sausage is at the tip of my tongue. These moments were all memorable, yet I am feeling more reflective about other culinary experiences. Many of my more memorable food moments took place while cooking both at Ox-Bow and home. Several entries on the list highlight specific ingredients or cooking methods, specifically drawing attention to economically thrifty goods and methods. Another aspect of dining that I find essential is the communal aspect of the act- the best meals are always shared with company. Also, I have found that the best dining establishments are those with great hospitality- testament to the passion and commitment of the ownership and the chef. A great example of this- too new to make this list, but worth mentioning- is a fantastic new Palestinian spot on Chicago Ave. in the old Bleeding Heart space called Chickpea. The chef here is the owner Jerry Suqi’s, mother, Amni, who will prove to be the West Town area’s new neighborhood matriarch- not only does her cooking reflect a loving home made touch, but she herself, presiding over the dining room, shares particulars about the chow and also warmly engages in conversation, providing a welcoming homey vibe. These are the kinds of eating experiences that I am interested in documenting these days, so several of these offerings have everything to do with the social nature of eating.

From left to right: Hen of the woods (Maitake), Chicken of the woods (Sulfur Shelf), Bear’s head tooth, Chicken Fat Suillus.
1. Foraging for wild mushrooms
My main guy in the kitchen at Ox-Bow, whose side I came up by- Mikey Henderberg, is the most resourceful dude you’ll ever meet- he taught us how to brew beer- even makes bread from the spent grains from the brewing process; he’s a master gardener; he disassembled and single handedly re-installed the engine to his van- I could go on- he’s the guy to be around when the world starts to really fall apart. He’s also a man of many tinkering little hobbies that I often do not pay enough attention to. This fall he got way into mushroom hunting. The psychedelic fractals of fungus that he started pulling into the kitchen intrigued me, but not quite enough to get me out there. He would slice them up, saute them in butter, and eat them for breakfast. When he finally shared a little taste of hen-of-the-woods with me- Holy Shit! the most savory fungal flavors I’d ever had. Enough to get me out in the woods every morning. This experience really thrills me on so many levels- poking around dark and mysterious necks of the woods- hanging out with the beetles and amphibians, the rush of discovering wildly ornate and colorful specimens that you can bring into the kitchen and make super simple, delicious, and far out snacks. This is an incredible experience for the nature loving cook. Find some woods and start hunting! (Though, I regret to inform you, it is illegal in Cook County, and please, please be careful and bring a detailed field guide!)
2. Mexico City street vegetarian food
Everyone knows how Mexican cuisine has a way with meat- from the slow cooked pork of carnitas to smoky char-grilled carne asada. They also tell you to never eat the vegetables when you’re down there (water-borne pathogen issues), especially not off the street. But on my last trip down there - with a vegetarian companion- we intrepidly did it up and ate an awesome array of surprising delicacies- huitlacoche (corn fungus) and zucchini blossom quesadillas, chilatole- a soup of roasted-chile-flavored masa porridge speckled with blue corn kernels, and this beautiful blue corn tostada- like snack that I have yet to find a name for, draped with nopale cactus, sprinkled with pungent cotija cheese and topped with fiery salsa:


3. LTHForum
Every foodie in Chicago should know about this site already. I first started “lurking” in 2005, clued in by Mike Sula’s writing for the Reader. At first the site seemed like too much to sort through- it’s a forum open to anybody and there are quite a few banal posts like folks looking for recommendations for taking their elderly parents for brunch in Lake County or places to eat after dental work. My advice for new comers is to scan through the “Great Neighborhood Restaurants” , a system of awards for neighborhood spots that are nominated by posters and voted on by consensus. Part of the charm of the site is its democracy and accessibility to the general public and I know that this is often a pain in the side of industry professionals - in this Yelp era of the omnipresent amateur critic. There are folks on this site that comb the entire city searching for interesting places to eat and this eyes-everywhere approach is a benefit to us all. Without LTH I would be in the dark about many of my favorite places to eat (and shop, and drink, and read). Examples (many of which will pop up later in this list)- Khan Pakistani BBQ on Devon, Sun Wah Chinese BBQ on Argyle, Uncle John’s BBQ on East 69th St.- these guys like BBQ, clearly. So I first started posting in Jan. 07- using an old kitchen nickname “Jefe” as my moniker, and my participation since has snowballed. Many of the core group of posters frequently host events at restaurants and have quite a social community- I attended a few of these events this year and I must say that this is a group of highly diverse, interesting, fun loving folks that have such a breadth of knowledge about food of all kinds. The foodie craze and the spread of laissez faire journalism on the internet are great things as far as I am concerned- everyone should be this informed and enthused about their food (that is maybe until too many of them swamp our favorite haunts like Kuma’s and Hot Doug’s).


4. Chicken
Last year my top ten was pretty chicken heavy- pollo frito at Habana Libre and chicken piri piri in Portugal, but ultimately it was more of a pork year (and as some of you may know I had at least one pork related disaster this year). Pork is definitely my true love, but maybe not my first. In these days of boneless skinless breasts- faceless, tasteless, franken/vegetative meat-like cartridges- its easy to forget about the bird. Chicken is humble, cheap, enjoyed as a protein source the world over. And when its done right- crisp fried, garlicky grilled, or tenderly roasted- it can be the finest of meats. This year one of my absolute favorite dishes was the Chicken Boti at Khan BBQ - marinated in yogurt, garlic, cilantro, and curry spices, then tandoori grilled. I quite successfully reverse engineered the recipe on a charcoal grill at Ox-Bow. The citrus fried chicken at Sun Wah is quite remarkable too- tangy, crisp, and super moist. We also scored a great new vendor for organic free range birds up in Michigan from Providence Farms. My favorite way to cook these birds is Judy Roger’s recipe from her Zuni Cafe - a fast high heat roast that requires a lot of rotating, yielding an almost fried crisp skin.

Photo courtesy of Stevez at LTHForum
5. Sun Wah BBQ
This is my favorite new (for me) restaurant in Chicago this year. It has long been an LTHForum stalwart, but I just never seem to make it to Uptown that often- parking is such a bitch up there. We finally made it one afternoon in the late summer for their $28 five course Beijing duck service - the best, best, best restaurant deal in town. We were kindly greeted by Kelly Cheng- she and her sister Laura have recently joined the family business, retooling the menu and adding gourmet flourish to classic dishes. We foolishly figured that a $28 dinner could not possible feed the four of us so we ordered Singapore noodles- the best I’ve had, and octopus whiskers- the crispiest, spiciest version of calamari ever. And then on to the duck- for the first course: well roasted dark meat quarters with daikon salad; second course (the best): expertly carved tableside duck breast served with bao- steamed rice buns (a Cheng sister remix on the classic wrapper of tortilla- like pancakes), with house made hoisin sauce! and scallion garnish; without notice at this point Kelly had swept the remaining parts of the duck carcass back to the kitchen and then re-emerged with the third course: an elemental broth made with the carcass with winter melon; fourth course (now we’re getting gluttonous)- a fried rice made with the meat scraps; and for desert a blackberry sorbet. Kelly presided over the meal with charm and mesmerizing knife skills- I could to marry this woman! We left almost unbearably stuffed. Our second meal there was for the LTH Great Neighborhood Restaurant award ceremony and we had a head spinning array of dishes that you’d better just check out on this link, so as not to clog Britton’s blog with hyperbole more than I already have. My favorite was the citrus fried chicken (see above). There is a fantastic video podcast taking a tour off Sun Wah’s facilities here , produced by Michael Gebert for his amazing video blog, Sky Full of Bacon.
Sun Wah BBQ
1132-34 W. Argyle St.
(773) 769-1254

6. Joong Boo Market
I’ve been shopping at Joong Boo, aka Chicago Food Corp. for years. At first it was a slightly out-of-the-way, but closer-than-the-alternatives, stop for Asian goods. Back then I knew nothing about Korean cuisine, but made do with their selection of Japanese, Chinese, and Southeast Asian ingredients for more familiar cooking styles. Once I started to try some of the many Korean eateries in town, my interest piqued in learning how to cook this food. Kimchi was an obvious first step and when I discovered gochujang, fermented chili paste, I was able to reverse engineer some of my favorite dishes. At this point Joong Boo opened its doors wider and I began to buy unfamiliar stuff to experiment with. Also, I landed a job in Albany Park off the KImball exit, so Joong Boo has been on my everyday route home from work since. It is now really my main grocery store. Their produce section actually smells like a farmer’s market even in the dead of winter- some of the veggies even have dirt on them still! They also now carry a line of dirt-cheap organic Asian produce as well. The frozen seafood is at rock bottom prices- though always inspect for freezer burn. For entertaining they sell better-than-most sashimi trays which go a long way for their value when entertaining. The meat selection is top notch- they sell heirloom Kurobuta (Berkshire) black pork at regular pork-at-the-grocery store prices. Their beef even is pristinely fresh and available in certain cuts impossible to find elsewhere- dig the below picture of well-marbelized rthinly sliced short rib. Take caution at their eat-in cafe- they make super cheap well rounded meals- bibimbop and bulgogi are safe bets. The beef stew isn’t bad either, but last time I ordered cod fish and tofu stew, it contained not only super fishy chunks with bones, skin, and all, but also an unidentifiable organ meat that I later identified as cod sperm sacs. Its not that they were bad tasting- and I am rather cavalier in my willingness to try new things- I’m just saying things here can get funky.
Joong Boo
3333 N Kimball Ave
Chicago, IL 60625
(773) 478-5566

7. Tampopo
I don’t know what took me so long to finally watch Juzo Itami’s 1985 “Ramen Western”. Friends had been recommending it to me since undergrad. Its got everything I love about film- outlaw characters a la Kurosawa and Sergio Leone, a non-linear narrative, romance, and ultimately super deep passion for and knowledge of Japanese cooking. I now scrutinize my stocks so much these days- is it clear enough, rich enough? How the hell am I going to learn how to pull noodles by hand? In what order do you eat each element from a bowl of noodle soup? This is kind of a ramen-less town. I had a pretty good one at trendy new Urban Belly that didn’t exactly shake a stick at New York’s Momofuku, but why should this Japanese street food cost $14 anywhere? But back to the film- joyous, action filled, postmodern, and food centric. Top ten in several categories!

8. Slow Cooked Meat
I’ll skip out on filet mignon any day for slow braised short rib. I prefer my beef fork tender and layered with luscious fat than a bloody $30 steak any day. Pork, too- with so many delicious ways to slow cook this king of meats- smoke it slow and low, braise and fry like carnitas, brown and slow braise for countless stew recipes. And did I mention lamb? Slow cooking elevates the cheapest cuts of meat to alchemical, elegant feasts. The main investment- time. Nothing wrong with the old crock pot either. Remember though to brown your meat well first, it deepens the flavor. Highlights this year were a recipe for Mark Bittman’s braised short ribs that worked amazingly, and then I took the dish a step further, amping up the spicing for a sort of Mexican barbacoa served with Mexican garnish as shown below. My award wining pork carne en chile wasn’t too bad either (see #10.)
9. Mondays at the Depot American Diner
What’s not to love about the Depot- fresh fried donuts to order with piping hot mocha sauce, house made roasted turkey and corned beef for the sammies, blue plate specials, gravy on fries, brisket sandwiches with frizzled onions, coke in a bottle- this place is the real deal for hand made American classic diner food. In less considerate hands, this kind of fare can be a little pedestrian for my tastes. The real lure, though, is the company. Monday is a good day for us gallery folk to extend out the weekend a little- at least for the morning. Danny, Carmen, and I often adhere to this leisurely schedule and try to at least once a month do a lunch out together- in 08 the Depot was our spot. Its a great moment- good friends, good food, enjoying each other’s company without booze, guiltlessly slacking off just a wee bit. And the staff at the Depot is as warm and inviting as the grub- but what ever happened to Alex? We miss her.

10. R&C Chili and Pie Cook Off
I feel a bit guilty stating that perhaps my favorite event at Roots & Culture this year was the Chili and Pie Cook Off. I know, I know, we are a contemporary art gallery with a mission to support emerging artists. I am absolutely committed to our program and fully believe that 08 was our finest year of programming. This night, though, had a special feel to it- I have never seen so many smiles at one of our events. Another facet to my vision for the place is to connect people and build community- with sixteen fantastic entries by art world folks and five insightful judges, we practically had a party going without all the other supporters. It was almost too much amazingness to try at once. The winners clearly stood out- Lauren Anderson’s Southern charmed peanut pie, Katie Scanlon’s (one of our greatest veggie cooks) veggie chilli that I am embarrassed to say I didn’t have a chance to try, some old school Mexican take on the classic with like twenty different chiles made by some smug chump who wins at his own game, and Marc Benson’s very classic grilled steak chile that I believe was the most archetypal of the offerings. Everybody really pulled through though- to name a few more- Carrie Schneider’s best crust, Glenn Hendrick’s late entry tomato and onion pie, Julia Fischbach’s (the originator of the pie component) uber- pecan pie, Noah Singer working double time in both categories, and Phillip von Zweck’s complex mole-like veggie chilli. Hats off to all and I am way proud to belong to this community of creative thinking gourmands!
Eric May is the proprietor of Roots and Culture and a very generous chef.